Greece, 2006 - The Easter holiday mass exodus from Athens begins on Holy Thursday evening, as families begin their annual sojourns to homes in distant islands and villages through out Greece. The television news is filled with views of clogged highways, and bustling airport scenes. Those left behind revel in the open streets, absent of their usual crowds. The streets of Athens are transfixed, vacant and eerily silent. Calm falls over the city and those remaining actually find a peace, devoid of the usual pressures and anxieties.

Preparations begin for the celebration of Pasha. TV hosts interview chefs from all over Greece for secret recipes and ingredients for the traditional lamb roast, kokoretsi, potatoes, katsiki, (roasted goat) fava, egg salads, tyropita, kolokithopita, and of course the dyed red Easter Eggs, symbolic of the rebirth of the risen Christ. It is refreshing to be able to abandon the concerns of political correctness and to instead thoroughly embrace this holiest of Christian holidays.

The Anastasi Service in Thrakomakedones, Parnitha Mountain, is celebrated in the open air. Worshippers wait outside the church patiently, candles lit, listening to the Bible reading, eagerly awaiting the words heard at midnight, Christ Has Risen! Truly He Has Risen! Amid the flurry of handshakes and embraces, and fireworks exploding, the priests drone on behind the riotous commotion, more as a sound effect rather than as the focus. Finally the fervour of the moment passes and those remaining hear the words of the jubilant cleric once again, “Christos Anesti!” “Alithos Anesti!” resounds in reply. The words of the Metropolitan of Greece, Christodoulos, are broadcast over the PA to the remaining crowd. The message is simple, “We do not today celebrate the tradition of feasting, and earthly concerns, tonight, the holiest of nights, we celebrate the victory over darkness, we celebrate the unconditional forgiveness, love, and peace bestowed upon us through the sacrifice by the Son of God and Savior.”

With the completion of his sermon, the priest enthusiastically bids everyone a safe and happy Easter celebration. He invites everyone to join him in the celebration of the liturgy and bids those leaving to their homes, to remember to thank the Lord for His generosity and His gift of light. He raises his candle and the crowd chants together,

Christ is risen from the dead,
Trampling down death by death,
And upon those in the tombs
Bestowing life everlasting!

Walking home in the darkness, carrying the light of God, families can be seen through curtained windows, gathered around their dining tables, raising toasts and cracking eggs, father to son, son to father, faces aglow in the moment.

The steaming Easter soup, Magiritsa, filled with lamb bits and a frothy egg lemon broth touched with the aroma of freshly chopped dill permeates the air. A mound of freshly baked bread and wine transported from the village, potatoes, and a special rooster, baked to perfection breaks the long fasting period. Never is a morsel sweeter than when it has been denied. Never a meal so delicious than when the 40 days finally elapse and one can finally break bread and enjoy the fruits of man’s labour, guided in his faith in a loving and generous God.

Awaking after a scant few hours of sleep, the patriarch of the household can be found feverishly preparing the Easter lamb for the grill, skewered then sewn lovingly in place. The charcoals are heated to a perfect coating of white, awaiting the placement of the skewered lamb. Family members begin arriving early around 10:30 each taking his turn at rotating the lamb quickly and evenly over the flaming coals. Smiling in anticipation, old and young carefully watch as the meat darkens. Each harbouring memories of past celebrations, those missing and those in distant places far from those gathered, yet close in their thoughts and prayers.

In addition to the lamb, a Kokoretsi hisses its readiness; it is removed from the spit. Everyone gathers as pieces are separated and placed before them. Kokoretsi, a delicacy most often associated with Easter, is prepared first by the thorough washing of the intestines of the lamb, and the remaining innards, which include, the kidneys, heart and the liver. These are skewered and wrapped with the fatty skin cut from the shoulders of the lamb. Once securely attached to the skewer; miles of intestine are carefully wrapped tightly around the skewered meat, creating a sausage like casing. The completed Kokoretsi is also added to the spit and slowly turned until a golden brown. The assembly of the Kokoretsi takes approximately 2 hours, and for those with eclectic palates the delicacy is well worth the effort.

The day slowly passes, guests come and go, sated with the repast, a guitar appears, the remaining guests gather, and a songfest ensues into the early morning hours. As the guests depart, they embrace and announce one last time, Kalo Pasha, Christos Anesti! Truly He has risen!

Malista!