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 |  A Visit to Sparta, Greece for Holy Friday Observances Sparta, Greece 2006 – Sparta is nestled in a valley surrounded by the southern most Alps, dominated by Taiyatos Mountain, forgotten in some respects by time. Although the road has been widened to a point, which reduces the trip from five hours to just less than three hours, the last 30 miles remain reminiscent of the one lane highway once traveled. Its hairpin turns and twists make travel a bit perilous. The car, laden with gifts and luggage sways violently providing a much unwanted thrill. Arriving safely, travelers are greeted by a bustling Palm tree lined boulevard. Traffic, ever present in Greece, has not over looked this thriving mini-opolis. Boasting some 20,000 residents, Sparta, the home of famed Menelaus, Agamemnon, and the beautiful Helen, is known for its olives and savory oranges. Sparta’s museum is surrounded by manicured lawns and orange trees whose blossoms fill the air with their lush spring perfume. The streets are strewn with flags announcing the coming of Pasha and the Resurrection of Christ, awakening the sleeping berg from its winter repose. Friends and family congregate, exchange news of family, view pictures, embrace and sigh in unison of the years past and the days lost in separation and distance. As the day draws to a close, preparation begins for Holy Friday observances. Many can be seen meandering through the adjoining cemeteries. Lighting candles, offering prayers for those departed, still so alive in memory. Memories of vivid days filled with youthful revelry; climbing the beloved mountain and treks to the Taiyatos shelter, of summers passed in small cot lined cabins, eating fried potatoes, olive oil basted eggs, and egg soaked hunks of freshly baked village bread, but these days remain buried in these marble shrines. Filled with nostalgia, families dress for church and evening worship. Crowds proceed in a steady procession to their neighborhood churches. Evangelistria, the Metropolis, towers over the city and greets the throngs with incense filled shelter. The chanting of century old lamentations fill the streets, projected over PA systems, “Life entombed.” Tradition holds that the four churches all carry their funeral pyres to the city’s platia (center) however, to the chagrin of many, the steady rain fall will preclude the joint celebration. Mourners instead remain indoors to revere the processional as it weaves its way through the crowded aisles. At the conclusion of services, running as though they would melt, celebrants rush to their homes to prepare for the Easter feasts and celebration of the promised rebirth of humanity, cleansed of sin by the sacrifice of the Son of God, who will arise triumphant to lead his faithful. 
Easter week in Crete (including their traditions):
Throughout Easter Week the churches are decorated in black and eggs to be eaten after Saturday MEGALI TETARTI - HOLY WEDNESDAY. A special service at lunchtime, so that worshippers can be blessed with oil. All household chores must be finished today. MEGALI PEMPTI - HOLY THURSDAY. Communion services start at 6am. Today octopus is cooked and dolmadakia made with vine leaves. At lunchtime the women dye the eggs red to symbolise the blood of Christ, they are kept until midnight on Saturday. The priest reads parts of the 12 gospels and after the fifth comes the symbolic crucifixion of Christ. A cross is put in the middle of the church, the priest carries the effigy of Christ and the children carry big beautifully decorated candles. MEGALI PARASKIEVI - HOLY FRIDAY. The bells ring the death knell. The unmarried girls decorate the 'Epitafio,' (a piece of furniture made of wood, like a table.) The men place the Epitafio in the centre of the church at midday. Many villagers still drink vinegar today, and children wash their hair in water steeped in the blossoms of bitter oranges. It is a day of rest for women and the men are forbidden to play cards. In the evening men take the Epitafio around the parish. In the villages they go to the cemetery. MEGALI SAVATO - HOLY SATURDAY. The services start in the morning, the church is filled with flowers. In the villages men slaughter the kid ready for Easter Sunday. Children make a Judas (like our Guy Fawkes). The women make Kalitsounia with Mizithra. KIRIAKI TIS LAMBRIS - MIDNIGHT SERVICE OF EASTER - SATURDAY/SUNDAY. Starts at about 11pm. The church lights are switched off and when the priest says, "defte lavata fos," the people go to light their candles. Later the people take their lit candle to their homes and make the sign of the cross on their front doors before going in. The Priest circles the church three times then says, "CHRISTOS ANESTI!" Children burn the Judas and people go home to celebrate the breaking of the fast with a soup called, 'Mayiritas', made with offal and the red eggs. EASTER SUNDAY. The end of a long fast. Traditionally, families meet with children going to their original villages from all over the world for the festival.  Malista! |  |